Thursday, October 02, 2008

Falling in Love Again (yes, Burgundy)

The Village of Vosne-Romanée

OK, enough with my shilling the wines I represent, what about the stuff I only drink on special occasions? What about those once a year splurges where you don't look at the prices and just let your knowledge and love of a particular wine region guide you? Nights where you just say "screw it" and let your palate, heart and soul lead the way? Has that ever happened to you?

It happened to me the other night.

I've been drinking lots of Rhônes for the past few weeks, as various Rhônophiles passed through town. While I enjoy a good Châteauneuf or Cornas as much as the next person, my first love remains Burgundy. And for a while there I was cheating on her, though I could hear her swan song in the distance, haunting me from the back of my head, beckoning me to come back to her.

So the other night I gave in to temptation and joined a good friend at a neighborhood place, where we ordered two beauties that reminded me why I love Burgundy so much. The food was amazing, the service fantastic, but the wines... aaaaah... the wines...

-2000 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres
On first wiff, I knew this Chardonnay would be lovely even though it was shy and reticent. Slowly, it unfolded, revealing layers of flavors and depths of complexity that made us swoon. Beautiful lemon, almond skins, soft hazelnuts, green apples wrapped around a stony, minerally core that ended with some lovely acidity in an elegant package, on a slightly oily frame that went on and on. As it warmed up we picked up a hint, and I do mean a hint, of oxydation, but at this level it added complexity rather than distracting from the wine.

-2000 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Richebourg
Oh. My. I need a moment.

Wow. this was just wow. And will be wow for years, if not decades. Right from the moment we first smelled it, this wine made me smile. Bright, fresh Pinot fruits overwhelmed the senses but in an elegant manner, with the barest hints of oak adding to the weightless presence on the palate. This is a wine that fills every nook and cranny of your mouth and doesn't let go, leaving behind that haunting memory that good Burgundy can. Finesse, elegance and power all wrapped up on a silky structure with well-integrated tannins, and with a finish that goes on and on and on...

It's good to back, my love.

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