Summer's Bounty Part Deux: Upstate NY

 

New York is known for many things, most of them ironically being on the very edges of the state: New York City, Niagara Falls, Lake George. But what many people don't realize is how beautiful and lush the very heart of the land is. Filled with huge natural parks and tons of villages with small farms, this is a truly beautiful state.

 

Best of all, the tomatoes in some friends' garden have escaped the blight that has afflicted the crops this year. And I LOVE tomatoes. These were succulent, fresh and with that refreshing tang of good fruit.

 

These made amazing bruschetta and were great while sitting outside on a cool late summer's evening.

 

The soils are rich with the bounty of summer, such as these fresh-picked potatoes and carrots. The carrots came home to NYC with me. The potatoes didn't last long. I love potatoes too.

 

Local farms also offer great meats, such as these cuts that were quickly grilled over a hot flame.

 

Those fresh potatoes? They went into a Pommes Ana tart that was filled with earthy, buttery goodness.

 

Everything was fresh, like these colorful flowers picked only a few minutes before dinner.

 

Apples, picked that afternoon, went into a Tarte Tatin that, unsurprisingly, was full of buttery goodness too. Hmmm... see a theme here?

 

And with such a rustic, lovely countryside dinner? What would you drink? I grabbed a bottle of 2007 Foillard Morgon Clos de Py Beaujolais, a deliciously earthy yet fruity wine that smells of the French countryside. Even the cat liked it.

 

I also revisited a place that had really impressed me the first time I was in the area: Swoon Kitchenbar, in Hudson. Like my first time there, the food was amazing, the wine list imaginative and well-priced, and the welcome warm. I even got some house-made smoked bacon from Chef Jeff. For a rustic bistrot, this was pretty cool!

Sometimes, it's nice to get away for a few days.
Cheers!

Say Hola to España's Wines

You didn't think all those trips to Spain this year were for vacations, now, did you? I was working, and working quite hard, thank you very little. In some ways this is a dream job, but in other ways, it's a tough job. I mean, I spent a good 4-5 weeks earlier this year, traipsing through Emporda, Pamplona and Galicia, tasting the local wines and trying to find something, anything, that would be both well-made and well-priced. Sadly, the two rarely come hand in hand.

But after much swirling, sniffing and spitting, I settled on a whopping two, count'em, two, wineries to represent.


The first is Empordàlia, from the hilly Emporda region north of Barcelona. They're a large winery, true, with a whopping 350 hectares (865 acres!) and so my first reaction was to look at their wines with a skeptical eye. But once I started tasting what they were making, I was pursuaded. Then again, they've learned a few things in the forty or so years they've been around.

The Sinols Negre is a blend of 40% Garnatxa, 40% Carinyena, and a balance of Syrah, Merlot and Ull de Llebre (a local variety). The wine is destemmed and cold macerated for 15 days, and never sees any oak. This is a stainless steel beauty, with a lovely perfume of dark flowers, blackberries and plums. The taste reflects the nose, with an elegant mouthfeel that leads to a long finish. Best of all, these wines would retail for around $12 and be delicious.

The Sinols Blanc, an assemblage of Grenache Blanc and Macabeu, is wonderfully aromatic yet carries its hefty nose on a surprisingly elegant frame with refreshing acidity. The finish will leave you aching for more. Seriously, it's delicious, especially on a hot summer's day.


My second choice was a winery called Aroa, in the hills just north of Rioja. Aroa was founded a few years ago through the partnership of two friends who were seeking to make hand-crafted, artisanal wines in the high altitude-foothills of the País de Navarra. They focus on traditional varieties like Garnatxa and Tempranillo to maintain the wines’ historical aspects and ensured the health of their vineyards through the use of organic viticultural methods.

Winemaker Txus Macias
Working with three different vineyards in the high mountains south of Pamplona, winemaker Txus Macías has crafted some lovely wines that proudly represent their terroirs. At Aroa, he uses certified Organic methods and traditional grapes varieties like Tempranillo and Garnatxa, with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Low yields and careful filtering mean the end products are unique and distinctive and have a nice rustic feel to them.

Alternating cover crops between rows is standard practice at Aroa
The Aroa Tempranillo Joven is a beautifully expressive and aromatic wine, with an earthy note that is the purest translation of its terroir. The mouthfeel is wonderfully, authentically rustic, with fresh acidity leading to a long, lingering finish. This wine is perfect on its own or with some Jamón Iberico. Then again, what doesn't go with Jamón Iberico?

Where and when can you get them? Soon, very soon, I promise. I am working hard on it even as I write these words. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures I've uploaded to the Vinotas Selections FaceBook Fan Page.
Cheers!

Sir Winston Churchill Comes Alive

No, not that one, of course. Rather, I'm talking about a recent tasting I organized with some friends of Pol Roger's prestige cuvée, the Sir Winston Churchill Champagne. The great man was a big fan and supporter of the Pol Roger house, and of Champagne in general. In fact, he is quoted as having said of it, "In victory, deserve it; in defeat, need it." As someone who enjoys a bubbly now and then, I couldn't agree more!

 

The line-up awaits: 2000 Rose, 1986, 1988, 1990, 1996, 1998 Sir Winston Churchill
This cuvée was born in 1975, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Winston Churchill's passing. The actual assemblage is a jealously guarded secret, but seeing how he preferred more robust Champagnes, it's likely this is a Pinot Noir-dominant wine.

We started with the 2000 Pol Roger Rose, which was very tight at first, but slowly uncoiled to show lovely flowery notes backed up by soft red berries, and a gorgeous mouthfeel that was both mouthfilling and elegant at the same time. I kept going back to this over the course of the evening and kept getting happier and happier with it. What a great way to start the night.

We had decided to do old to young, and so the first pour was also one of the best, the 1986 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill. It was poured alongside the 1988 Sir Winston Churchill in an attempt to revisit the Eighties. Almost from the start, the 1986 was showing better, with gorgeous notes of dark yeast, apple pie, caramel/toffee, cafe au lait, brioche, and hints of red berries. It also had that lovely musk that older Champagne sometimes gets, but which blows off quickly as the wine breathes. Gorgeous, and it developped nicely over the course of the evening. The 1988, on the other hand, had something weird going on. I thought it might be slightly corked, as I got whiffs of TCA every now and then, but then again I am SUPER sensitive to that (lucky me). Others disagreed about the cork but did agree that there was something off with it. Too bad, as I had been looking forward to trying it next to the 1986.

 

There were a few other wines too...
Next up came the Nineties, with the 1990, the 1995, the 1996 and the 1998 Sir Winston Churchill. Of the four, my favorite was the 1998 and 1995 to drink right away, the 1990 to hold and watch evolve in the glass, and the 1996 to hold for another ten years. Profile-wise, as expected, they were all relatively similar, with vintage variations coming through in terms of their openness and power. The 1990 was extremely full-bodied, as was the 1996, but the 1995 and 1998 were more (relatively) lean and easy to drink. These last two were also not as complex or promising, IMHO, as the 1990 and 1996, both of which seemed to be teasing us with greatness to come.

Overall, it was a great learning experience. The wines had many similarities as could be expected, but vintage variations really came through. As did storage, of course. But the great man was correct, Pol Roger is making some lovely wines. For a big house, this was a pretty impressive showing.

Oh, and the other wines? Well, the Burgundy was nice, but WOW was that 1937 La Tour Blanche Sauternes fantastic, with the color of Cognac. This was a wine I had to sit with for a while, if only for the history that it represented. It was gorgeous, with lovely aromas of honeyed caramel brule, figs, almonds, with whiffs of herbs, and a thick, slightly oily mouthfeel that covered the palate and then faded slowly away into the mists of time. Fantastic, and extremely generous of my friend to share.

God, I love wine.
Cheers!

Summer's Bounty

 

Summertime means fresh fruit and vegetables, their odors filling the house with the freshness of life. Even despite a ridiculously rainy season, the farmers markets are full of vibrant colors and odors, all vying for our attention. The fantastic basil, above, has made my fridge smell so good that I want to curl up in it and spend the day there.

 

The corn is insanely sweet, and what better way to enjoy it than by mixing it with the basil, some lovely shallots, and fresh scallops? Sauteed quickly in a pan, they make an amazing first course.

 

A young, lively white Burgundy was a perfect match for this, the acidity cutting through the sweetness of the corn and scallops and cleansing the palate.

 

What of the other vegetables? No, I haven't forgotten them either, they get chopped up into little squares, quickly browned in some olive oil, then tossed into a big pan all together. Simmered for about an hour, they turn into a huge, multi-colored, fantastic-smelling mass of summery goodness. Based on a recipe from Southern France, this ratatouille is a pure definition of summer. As in the movie, the aromas bring back memories of youth and more care-free days.

 

Of course, I wasn't drinking as well when I was younger. An elegant yet meaty, bacony, olivey 1989 Gonon St Joseph "les Oliviers" was a lovely counter-point to the rustic nature of the lemon confit, olive oil and thyme-marinated rack of lamb and ratatouille. The evening was a celebration of the season and its gifts, a gentle reminder of how generous Mother Earth can be sometimes.
Cheers!

Galicia, Spain

I have to travel a lot in this job, and I just returned from a recent trip to Spain's Galicia region, in the Northwest of the Iberian peninsula. One thing I love about these voyages, aside from the good food, nice wine, and passionate people, is the exposure to local culture that I receive. I love learning about that, always have, always will. And there are always surprises to be had...

 

So it was quite a shock to discover that this part of Spain has a strong Celtic tradition. There are dolmens, folks wear kilts sometimes, Celtic runes on the walls of pubs, heck, there are PUBS, and, more weirdly, they play bagpipes (!). It's quite something to see someone speaking fluent Spanish to you while wearing a kilt and playing a bagpipe, or to see someone with the facial features of a Dublin resident speaking Galician. A bit disconcerting but also reassuring that this world is much larger and more full of surprises than you expected.

 

The geography is quite intensely wild, with forest and vineyard-lined fjords called Rias carved by receding glaciers at the end of the last Ice Age all along the coast. When one thinks of Spain, one thinks dry and hot, but this was cool and wet. Quite like Ireland, actually. Or rather, the reverse, as the original settlers of Ireland were tribespeople from this land. Who knew?

Our trip took us all over this sparsely-populated land, visiting wineries who make Mencia, Godello, Treixadura and Albarino. For the most part, it's almost all white wines, except for Mencia, which tastes a lot like Cabernet Franc.

 

Starting in the small city of Vigo, with its industrial port overseen by an ancient fortress and small homes, we made our way inland to Leiro. The maritime influence is still evident even here, with its food and culture and weather deeply affected by the Atlantic Ocean.

 

Paella, Leiro-style
The Celtic background is evident here too, with monasteries looking like they'd been plopped right from England or at least the set of the movie "Monty Python and the Holy Grail".

 

 

 

 

We were also close enough to take a quick stroll across the River Mino into Portugal, though we weren't there to taste Portuguese wines so our guides quickly rushed us back across the border before we could do any harm.

 

Despite all these influences, there was still the over-riding aspect of Spanish culture, such as Jamon Iberico at the local Feira del Vino in O Rosal, near the border.

 

The shared culture of fishing and respect for the bounty of the waters was there as well, in decorations on the walls and in the way the food was presented. Everything was appreciated, nothing taken for granted.

 

And, amidst all this, there was the dance festival in La Guarda, literally on the border with Portugal. There, women in fancy costumes whirled to the sound of Flamenco, their castagnettes clacking away madly, making a lovely counterpoint to their movements.

God, I love travelling.
Cheers!

Back to Basics: Blind Chardonnay Tasting

 

This blog is ostensably about wine, and my passion is wine, but let's face it, I've been a bit neglectful in talking about it lately. So let's get back to basics: a blind Chardonnay tasting.

When this was first proposed, I was excited. First, I love good Chardonnay, espcially from Burgundy (duh). Second, it's always fun, and humbling, to attend a blind tasting. All pre-suppositions about labels, place, year, quality or price go out the window. You are judging the wine based on its merits alone. Granted, the organizer must ensure that all the wines coming are equally ready to drink, or are placed in similar flights. Otherwise you might end up with some bottles that are completely closed for business while others shout out for attention, drowning out all the others. This drinking business can get complicated, no?

So a small group of winelovers descended on Apiary in the East Village, Chef Scott Bryan's new project. First, let me just say the food and service were fantastic and I heartily recommend it (no affilition, yadda yadda yadda...).

 

More importantly, the tasting was quite interesting and eye-opening. It would be interesting to see if we could pick out the New World from the Old World styles, something I heartily anticipated doing.

FLIGHT 1
-#1
Creamy lemon, perfumy oak on the nose, but more citrus than wood. The body is fat, with some spicy oakiness to it that's balanced and even lifted by some striking acidity. Everyone said Burgundy, I decided to be contrarian and say a 10-year old CA Chard. I was almost right! Woohoo!
1997 Calera Mt Harlan Chardonnay

-#2
Lemony butterscotch, some caramel, mushroomy with sweet oxydative notes on the nose. Ugh, sour lemony popcorn aspects on the palate, this was shot. Too bad, this could have been amazing. We all said mid-/late-1990s white Burg. Duh.
1996 Niellon Chassagne Montrachet Clos de la Truffiere

-#3
Ripe lemony popcorn wrapped in a layer of vanilla oak, the palate was sweet and somewhat fat with a spicy, buttery note to it that ended with a slightly bitter finish. Everyone voted CA.
2000 Pahlmeyere Jason

FLIGHT 2
-#4
Ugh, caramelized apples and not much more anywhere, neither on the nose or palate. I wrote "Undrinkable", and we all guessed another mid-1990s white Burg.
1995 Ramonet Batard-Montrachet Argh!

-#5
Right off the bat, this reminded me of those CostCo apple pies you see warming in the Bakery section. Not a bad thing, as it offers some nice apple compote and cinnamon aspects, with some hints of oxydation and orange marmalade notes. The palate was slightly fat, with nutty and lemony honey tastes, ending in a surprisingly sour finish. We were all over the map on this one, especially as the bottle shape made us think New World (most said CA, I decided to be a prick and say Australia). We were all wrong.
1991 Gravner Chardonnay

-#6
At first, this had some weird, but not unlikable minty/vegetal notes, which made me think Ramonet and white Burgundy. But the green started to dissipate, replaced by an almost petrolly smell, wrapping itself around a quartz and lemon core. In the mouth, this was medium-bodied and certainly tasted better than it smelled, with honeyed lemon, striking minerality and a nice, medium, well-balanced finish. We all said white Burg.
1992 Lafon Meursault Genevriere

FLIGHT 3
-#7
Orange zest, petrol, nuts and hints of oxydation on the nose, with a spicy, medium-weight frame offering hints of tea, lemon, nuts and ending in a long finish. Another vote for white Burg.
2000 Maltroye Batard Montrachet

-#8
Right off the bat, we could see this was a lighter-bodied wine, as it didn't pour as viscously as the others in the flight. It also smelled lighter, with fresh pineapple, steely lemon cream and light nuts (almonds?). The palate followed through with a similar (relatively) lighter feel, ending in a medium-length finish. Nice, but not in the same league as the others. Votes were all over the place, I said Chassagne Montrachet. Close but no go.
2002 Louis Latour Puligny Montrachet

-#9
Oooh, this smells nice, with minty lemons, almonds, hints of minerals like quartz on the nose. Its feel is nice too, with a medium, balanced body offering more minerals, lemony almonds, and a long, spicy finish. This HAS to be white Burgundy, and I voted as such. Whoops. Surprise of the night!
2005 Dierberg Santa Maria

FLIGHT 4
-#10
The nose is full of fat, ripe lemony almonds, Granny Smith apples, and a certain, lovely musky note. On the palate, this is lovely, even if a bit fat, with lemon and spices and almonds all balanced out by a beautiful, fresh acidity. Another vote for white Burgundy. Again, whoops.
2002 Aubert Richie

-#11
CORKED. DAMNIT.
2001 Lafon Meursault Charmes

-#12
ALSO CORKED. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?
2007 Seven Springs la Source (a Lafon project in Oregon I believe)

FLIGHT 5
-#13
Whoa, this has GOT to be CA: dry almonds, minerals, perfumy oak, ripe lemons on the nose, with similar aspects carried through on the fat, ripe structure, but ending in a surprisingly short finish. Somewhat unbalanced, not to my liking, though I can see why others would enjoy it.
2001 Kistler Cathleen

-#14
Oxydated, nothing but burnt nuts and caramelized apples. Ugh.
2001 Peter Michael Pointe Rouge

-#15
Oooooh, this smells nice, what is it? Lovely herbal mint notes wrapped around a core of minerally lemons, carried through on a steely, elegant frame. The mouthfeel is just as lovely as the nose, with a laser-like precision that lifts flavors of spicy almonds, more fresh mint, and minerally lemons (think those crystallized lemons), with an understated power and elegance that is almost shockingly refreshing. The finish goes on and on and on and on. Quite nice, and we all said white Burgundy.
2001 Ramonet Chevalier Montrachet

FLIGHT 6
-#16
Ripe, honeyed lemons and almonds wrapped themselves around some nice minerals on the nose of this one. In the mouth, it was medium-weighted, with some spicy notes to it and a relatively short finish. I think we all voted CA.
2003 Marcassin Estate

-#17
Very similar aspects to the previous wine, with similarly ripe and honeyed lemons and spices, though the palate was a tad fresher and had better lift from some more acidity and more minerality. I voted white Burg.
2003 Coche Dury Meursault Caillerets

-#18 (not blind) 1979 Chateau Latour
Yep, a red, and a Bordeaux at that, generously offered by a friend of Bob's. Popped and poured, this really should have been decanted a bit, but it was rather nice and reminded me why I used to like Bordeaux so much. Notes of band-aid, funk, dark plums/cherries and soft wood aspects held your attention. The palate was light, with some sweet red fruit still fighting for survival (storage might have been an issue, we weren't sure), herbs, and a nice, balanced finish. Not bad, and a welcome reprieve from all the whites.

POST-DINNER DRINKS
Because 17 bottles of white and 1 bottle of red weren't enough, a few friends joined me for a stumble through the East Village to one of my favorite haunts, Pata Negra. Since we apparently hadn't eaten enough, either, we ordered a plate of the legendary Pata Negra ham, and while that melted on our tongues, we drank a Rose Txakoli.

 

-2008 Rose Txakoli (name forgotten in the mists of hangover)
Gorgeous color, with flower red berry notes, and just a hint of spritz to tickle your nose. Very light-bodied, this perked up the palate with lively acidity and fresh berries and flowers on the tongue. A great way to end the night, I might add, as the fruit was just ever-so-slightly sweet.

Conclusions: We thought it would be easier to pick out the New World from the Old World, but it turned out to be harder than anticipated. I might add, however, that while we did have most of the best of the best of CA, we didn't really have the best of the best of Burgundy. No Montrachet, only one Chevalier, and the Batards were undrinkably oxydized. WOTN for most was the Aubert, followed closely by the Ramonet Chevy.

Still, it was a fun evening, and a big thanks to all who made it and donated so generously from their cellars.
Cheers!

Market Watch: Barcelona's Boqueria

 

After France, I returned to Barcelona for a few days of exploration and rest. Travelling non-stop almost every day does get tiresome sometimes. Actually, most of the time. Yeah, I'm going to vineyards in the South of Europe, but still, it does wear one down. So staying put for more than 3 days was a real treat. And, I got to visit some beautiful sites in a city I didn't know well at all, including the world-famous Boqueria Market. So, without further annoying interference from moi, here are a few pics for your perusal.

WARNING: Might cause a sudden sense of vertigo, induce drool, and cause your knees to weaken.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers!